The North: river, hills and history

By car, Route PY03 takes you from Asunción to San Estanislao (known as Santaní); from there, PY08 is the backbone heading north, passing Santa Rosa del Aguaray (for Laguna Blanca) and Yby Yaú before ending at Bella Vista Norte. PY05 links Concepción, Horqueta, Yby Yaú, Cerro Corá and Pedro Juan Caballero; PY22 connects Santaní, Villa del Rosario, San Pedro, Belén and Concepción, then continues north toward San Alfredo (Tagatiyá) and San Lázaro (Vallemí); and PY11 runs across from Puerto Antequera to Capitán Bado via San Pedro del Ycuamandiyú, Nueva Germania and Santa Rosa del Aguaray. Concepción can also be reached along the Transchaco highway (PY09) via Pozo Colorado. Approximate driving times: Santaní 2 h 30 min, Laguna Blanca 4 h 15 min, Concepción 6-7 h, Pedro Juan Caballero 6 h 30 min-7 h, Vallemí 9 h. Daily buses leave Asunción's main bus terminal for Concepción, Pedro Juan Caballero, San Pedro and Santaní; for Vallemí you usually connect in Concepción. Check timetables and bus companies before you go.

April to September is the best time for hills, caves and trails: mild days and less rain (in June and July, mornings in Amambay can be very cold, even frosty). December to March is water season: Tagatiyá, Laguna Blanca and the river beaches of the Ypané, the Jejuí and the Apa, with highs of 35-40 °C and heavy storms. Dates that draw crowds: March 1 (Heroes' Day) at Cerro Corá, the June festivities in San Pedro and Villa del Rosario, Expo Concepción (formerly Expo Norte) in late August and early September, and the patron-saint feasts from October to December. Between November and December the fishing ban (veda) is in force, with dates set each year by MADES, the environment ministry.