Routes · 6 days
Historic North: Laguna Blanca, Cerro Corá, and Concepción
A circuit through the San Pedro, Amambay, and Concepción departments. It begins in Santaní, with its Jesuit reduction history and Marshal López's old barracks, and at Laguna Blanca, a pale sand beach set in the cerrado savanna. It continues at Cerro Corá, where the War of the Triple Alliance ended in 1870, and at the open land border of Pedro Juan Caballero. It closes in Concepción, the Pearl of the North, with its port, the town of Belén, and the turquoise waters of the Tagatiyá streams.
Santaní and Laguna Blanca
≈ 288 km
Along Route PY03 to San Estanislao (Santaní), about 2 hours 45 minutes: a history museum covering the town's Jesuit past and Marshal López's barracks. Continue on Routes PY08 and PY11 to Laguna Blanca, with an unpaved final stretch. Arrive with daylight left for a first swim or a walk through the cerrado savanna at sunset. About 290 km and 5 hours of driving.
Overnight: Overnight near Laguna Blanca (there are cabins and camping in the area, reservation required). Alternative along the way: Santaní.
Cerro Corá, where the Great War ended
≈ 230 km
An early swim in the lagoon before setting off for the Amambay department, about 3 hours 30 minutes away. At Cerro Corá National Park (visitor entry until 3pm) you'll walk the site where Marshal López fell on March 1, 1870, along with the museum and trails winding through hills and forest. Overnight in Pedro Juan Caballero, about 40 km on. About 230 km.
Overnight: Overnight in Pedro Juan Caballero or in the hills nearby. Alternative: the campground at Cerro Corá National Park.
The open border and the road to Concepción
≈ 214 km
Morning in Pedro Juan Caballero, where a single avenue separates Paraguay from Brazil and Guaraní, Spanish, and Portuguese all mix together. Then, west on Route PY05, with a stop in Horqueta, the capital of ka'a he'ẽ (a sweet native herb) and leatherwork. Arrive in Concepción for sunset at the port, famous for its blazing skies over the river. About 215 km and 3 hours 30 minutes.
Overnight: Overnight in Concepción: there is lodging of every kind in town.
Concepción, Belén, and the Río Paraguay
≈ 41 km
A walk through grand old houses from another era and the Villa Real Barracks Museum (mornings, free admission). In the afternoon, Belén, 20 km away, where the Tropic of Capricorn passes through and the Río Ypané offers white-sand beaches. Finish with a short boat ride from the Concepción port across to the Chaco shore (arrange with local boatmen).
Overnight: Overnight in Concepción (or in Belén): there is lodging of every kind.
The Tagatiyá streams: floating among fish
≈ 167 km
About 80 km north on the paved Route PY22, then a final unpaved stretch (rough after heavy rain) to the Tagatiyá streams: turquoise water over a limestone bed, perfect for floating with a snorkel mask among the fish. Each swimming spot charges its own entry fee and keeps its own hours (check before you go). From November to March the cool water is a relief; in winter, it feels ice-cold. Return to Concepción in the afternoon. About 170 km round trip.
Overnight: Overnight in Concepción: there is lodging of every kind in town.
Back to Asunción via the Transchaco
≈ 417 km
Cross the bridge over the Río Paraguay and head down the Transchaco highway, stopping in Pozo Colorado. It's about 420 km and 6 to 6.5 hours of driving, all paved. Leave early to enjoy the birdlife in the wetlands along the way and reach Asunción while it's still light.
Overnight: Overnight in Asunción: there is lodging of every kind in town.
Tips
- Cerro Corá welcomes visitors from 8am to 3pm and charges a modest entry fee: plan your Day 2 arrival with some margin.
- Laguna Blanca and the Tagatiyá streams get crowded on January weekends and public holidays; weekdays are much calmer.
- In Pedro Juan Caballero, check on the current security situation beforehand and stick to central, commercial areas during daylight hours.
- Possible extension: Vallemí and its caves, north of Concepción on Route PY22, with a guide and advance booking.