Capitán Bado y sus saltos: things to see in Paraguay

The North: river, hills and history Capitán Bado

Capitán Bado y sus saltos

Town

Some thirty waterfalls hidden in the Amambay range, right on the dry border with Brazil.

401 km≈ 6 h 30 from Asunción

2-3 daysDuration

₲₲₲Budget or free

DirectionsSee on map

What it is

Capitán Bado is a border town high on the Amambay range, separated from Brazil's Coronel Sapucaia by a single street. Its district hides some 32 waterfalls among the hills and red-dirt roads: the Aguaray, more than 40 m high; the Samakua, about 60 m; and the Jovái (or Piraymí), just steps from the highway, where two streams fall side by side. The same range is home to Cerro Guasú, or Jasuka Venda, a hill sacred to the Paĩ Tavyterã people. It's a destination for travelers with an expedition spirit: steep trails, cold plunge pools and plenty of green.

What to see and do

Salto Aguaray, on the river of the same name: a drop of more than 40 m
Salto Samakua, about 60 m high, on the stream of the same name some 45 km from town
Salto Jovái (Piraymí), about 1,200 m from the paved PY11
Salto Guasukua and its natural pool, in the Aguara Veve settlement
Views of Cerro Guasú (Jasuka Venda), sacred site of the Paĩ Tavyterã

Did you know…?

For the Paĩ Tavyterã, Jasuka Venda hill (Cerro Guasú) is where the creation of the world began.

In the Itaguy Guasu rock shelter alone, near Jasuka Venda, 1,353 rock engravings have been catalogued; the oldest human occupation in the area dates back to around 5000 BC.

At the Jovái (or Piraymí) falls, the Ytí (Agua Limpia) and Piraymí streams meet and tumble down in two parallel cascades.

History

It was founded on July 25, 1914, under the government of Eduardo Schaerer, and bears the name of Captain José Matías Bado (1843-1868), a hero of the War of the Triple Alliance. It grew on yerba mate, farming and cross-border trade with Brazil. According to the 2022 census it has 18,851 inhabitants, and Guarani, Spanish and Portuguese mingle in its streets.

Tips

Aguaray and Samakua are 30-45 km from town along dirt roads: you'll need a 4x4, and it's best to go with a local guide.
The descent to Salto Aguaray is a short but very steep trail: wear hiking shoes and take your time.
Several waterfalls are on private property: ask permission before entering.
This is a border area: check with the municipality about roads and safety, and travel by day. Jasuka Venda is Indigenous territory and cannot be visited without the community's permission.

The waterfalls have no formal hours; visit by day and with the landowners' permission. Check before you go.

Best time: April to October, when the roads are dry; after some rain the falls run fuller, but the dirt access roads get tricky. March 19 is the patron-saint feast.