Josep M. Gracia · CC BY-SA 4.0Laguna Capitán y lagunas saladas del Chaco Central
Salt lagoons deep in the Chaco where flamingos, coscoroba swans and hundreds of waterbirds spend the winter.
What it is
In the heart of the dry Chaco, the Yacaré Sur stream forms a string of salt lagoons (Capitán, Campo María, Chaco Lodge, León, Ganso, Rojas Silva) that look like a mirage: still water, whitish shores and flocks of flamingos, southern screamers, jabiru storks and coscoroba swans. Laguna Capitán, a private reserve of some 4,500 hectares owned by the Chortitzer cooperative, has a camp with lodging and trails; Chaco Lodge, a Ramsar wetland site, adds the Flamingo Lookout and nights of crystal-clear stars. It's one of the best places in the country for birdwatching.
What to see and do
- Laguna Capitán camp: trails and birdwatching
- The Flamingo Lookout on the Chaco Lodge lagoon (a Ramsar site)
- Campo María's wooden lookout
- Sunsets and starry skies for astrophotography
- Rheas, jabiru storks, southern screamers and coscoroba swans
Did you know…?
The flamingos arrive in winter, escaping the cold of the south; how many turn up varies each year with the water level.
Chaco Lodge has the largest expanse of open water in the Central Chaco lagoon system.
Campo María, another Chortitzer reserve of some 4,000 hectares, has a wooden lookout that's ideal at sunset.
History
These lagoons are part of the saline wetlands of the Yacaré Sur stream basin. The Chaco Lodge lagoon, inside a 2,500-hectare private reserve, is a Ramsar site thanks to its importance for birds and aquatic wildlife. Conservation is in the hands of the Chortitzer cooperative, which owns Laguna Capitán and Campo María, and of private landowners.
Tips
- Visits and overnight stays by prior reservation only, with limited places: Laguna Capitán and Campo María through the Chortitzer cooperative (Environment Office, 0492 252 301); Chaco Lodge directly with its owners.
- Bring binoculars, a cap, insect repellent and water; there are no shops nearby.
- After heavy rain, the dirt roads can become impassable.
By prior reservation only; ask about rates (check before you go).
Best time: May to September for flamingos and migratory birds, at dawn or dusk. Numbers vary each year with the water level.
What to try
- Traditional Paraguayan and Mennonite food in the camp dining room (by reservation)
Activities
Where to stay
Nearby
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Neuland · Boquerón
Neuland (distrito de Boquerón)
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Researched and reviewed in September 2026 with 8 sources. A second reviewer checked dates, coordinates and lodging. Hours and prices may change.