Routes · 3 days

Essential Paraguay in 3 Days

Three days to take in Paraguay without rushing: founding-era Asunción on foot, with the Pantheon of Heroes, the Independence House, and sunset over the bay; then Route PY02 into the Cordillera de los Altos, with the delicate ñandutí lace of Itauguá, the Caacupé basilica, and Atyrá's leatherwork; and a closing stretch by Lake Ypacaraí, taking in Areguá's pottery, the Kõi and Chororĩ hills, and Luque's fine filigree jewelry, just minutes from the airport.

First-time visitors to Paraguay, long layovers, and travelers short on time who want an honest taste of the country.April to October, with mild days. In summer (December to February) it's best to start early and save midday for air-conditioned museums.Day 1 on foot; Days 2 and 3 by your own or a rental car, a hired driver (remís) for the day, or a Circuito de Oro tour from Asunción.

Asunción on foot: where the Mother of Cities was born

≈ 4 km

Start early at Plaza de los Héroes and the Pantheon of Heroes. The Independence House tells the story of the night of May 14, 1811; the Cathedral and the free Cabildo cultural center round out the morning. After lunch, visit Manzana de la Rivera and its Casa Viola, across from the López Palace. Finish at the Costanera riverfront, watching the sun set behind the Chaco. It's all within a few easy blocks on foot.

Centro Cultural de la Ciudad Manzana de la Rivera y Casa Viola

Overnight: Asunción: Hotel Guaraní or Gran Hotel del Paraguay (classic choices), Casa Corbellani or La Casona Hotel Boutique, El Viajero Hostel (budget).

Ñandutí lace, the Virgin of Caacupé, and Atyrá leatherwork

≈ 91 km

Head out on Route PY02 before 8am to beat the traffic. In Itauguá, artisans sell ñandutí — a delicate, spider-web-like lace — right along the road. Continue to Caacupé: the basilica, the Virgin's spring, and freshly baked chipa (Paraguay's beloved cheese bread). In the afternoon, Atyrá, a town of leatherworkers with immaculate plazas. Finish in San Bernardino, a former German colony on the lake, for dinner along the waterfront. About 90 km and 2 hours of driving in total.

Overnight: San Bernardino: Hotel del Lago (a historic property dating to 1888), Hotel Los Alpes, La Posta, or Cabañas Los Árboles.

Areguá, the Kõi and Chororĩ hills, and Luque's filigree jewelry

≈ 61 km

A relaxed morning by Lake Ypacaraí before crossing to Areguá: old summer houses, a hilltop church, and pottery workshops; from July to September, don't miss the strawberries at the local Expo. Two minutes away, the sandstone columns of Cerro Kõi, a geological rarity (open Monday to Friday). In the afternoon, Luque and its gold and silver filigree jewelry shops, just a short hop from the airport. About 60 km and 1.5 hours of driving.

Overnight: Asunción (Hotel Guaraní, Casa Corbellani, El Viajero Hostel) or Luque, near the airport (Rio Hotel by Bourbon Luque).

Tips

Cerro Kõi is open Monday to Friday from 8:00 to 16:00, per Paraguay's environmental authority (MADES): if Day 3 falls on a weekend, swap the order with another day or check before you go.
Leave Asunción before 7:30am or after 9:30am: Route PY02 between San Lorenzo and Capiatá gets heavily congested.
Carry cash in guaraníes (₲) for handicrafts and chipa: roadside stands don't always take cards.
Between November 28 and December 8, Caacupé hosts its great pilgrimage: a beautiful experience, but expect road closures and fully booked hotels.
For Day 1, avoid Sundays: the Independence House is closed and the Pantheon only opens until noon (check before you go).