Routes · 3 days

Artisan Paraguay: Ñandutí Lace, Filigree, Pottery, and Poncho

A journey through the crafts that define Paraguay, town by town and workshop by workshop: the pottery of Itá, Tobatí, and Areguá; the cotton weavings of Carapeguá; Piribebuy's 60-stripe poncho para'i; the carved santos of Tobatí; Atyrá's leatherwork; the ñandutí lace of Itauguá; and the gold and silver filigree of Luque. It closes at the Museo del Barro, which brings together Indigenous and folk art from across the country.

Travelers interested in folk art, designers, conscious shoppers, and anyone looking for gifts with a story.Year-round, on weekdays or Saturdays, when the workshops are open. In late October or early November, the Ñandutí Festival takes place in Itauguá; in January, the Poncho Festival in Piribebuy.Your own or a rental car; a hired driver (remís) for the day from Asunción also works. Each town is reachable by bus, but with many transfers.

Itá pottery and Carapeguá weavings

≈ 112 km

Head out on Route PY01 to Itá, one of the country's oldest towns and its pottery capital: family workshops, jugs, pots, and animal figurines, plus the Juana Marta Rodas House Museum (by appointment). In Yaguarón, admire the carved, painted altarpieces of the Franciscan church, made by Guaraní artisans. In the afternoon, Carapeguá, the capital of poyvi weaving: blankets, hammocks, and ponchos woven on hand looms right along the road. Overnight in Paraguarí, among the hills. About 110 km.

Overnight: Paraguarí: Mirador Las Colinas or Tower Suites; Glamping Mbatoví for something different.

The 60-stripe poncho, santo-carvers, and leatherworkers

≈ 84 km

Take the Paraguarí–Piribebuy road to reach Piribebuy, birthplace of the 60-stripe poncho para'i, woven from fine cotton. A brief stop in Caacupé, then on to Tobatí, the craft capital: potters, wood-carvers of religious santo figures, and the Villa Artesanal. Finish in Atyrá, where leatherworkers ply their trade and locals keep their plazas spotless. About 85 km.

Overnight: Atyrá: Posada Jasy Kua (part of the Posadas Turísticas program). Alternative: Caacupé, Alta Gracia Parque Hotel or Posada El Escondido.

Areguá, Itauguá's ñandutí, Luque's filigree, and the Museo del Barro

≈ 92 km

Morning in Areguá, among pottery workshops and old houses by the lake. Continue to Itauguá, the ñandutí capital, where artisans weave and sell this delicate 'spider-web' lace right along Route PY02. Lunch and filigree jewelry shops in Luque. Close out the day from 2pm at the Museo del Barro in Asunción (Tuesday to Saturday), to see everything you've experienced in its full context. About 90 km.

Overnight: Asunción: Casa Corbellani, La Casona Hotel Boutique, Hotel Guaraní, or El Viajero Hostel.

Tips

Buy directly from the workshops: ask about the time each piece takes to make, and avoid haggling over fine handmade work.
Plan Day 3 for Tuesday through Saturday so you find the Museo del Barro open.
Extensions: Yataity del Guairá (for ao po'i, a fine hand-woven cotton fabric), San Miguel in the Misiones region (wool textiles), and Quiindy (hand-stitched leather balls).
Bring cash in guaraníes (₲): many workshops don't accept cards.