Routes · 8 days

The Paraguayan Pantanal: Fuerte Olimpo and Bahía Negra

An expedition into the Alto Paraguay region, where the Chaco gives way to the Pantanal. The Transchaco and Bioceánica highways lead to Fuerte Olimpo, with its 1792 colonial fort and three hills rising over the river. Further north, Bahía Negra, the last Paraguayan town upriver, is the base for boating among caimans, capybaras, and wood storks, and for reaching the Los Tres Gigantes Biological Station and the triple border on the Río Negro by boat.

Adventurous travelers, wildlife photographers, and birdwatchers with time, patience, and tolerance for the unexpected.Only in the dry season, from July to October, when the dirt roads are passable and wildlife concentrates around the water.Your own 4x4 or one with an operator; partial alternatives include a weekly bus and a SETAM flight to Bahía Negra, or a boat from Concepción (check before you go).

The Transchaco to Loma Plata

≈ 446 km

The first long stretch, fully paved: the Remanso Bridge, palm groves, wetlands, and a stop in Pozo Colorado. Arrival in Loma Plata, in the Central Chaco, to stock up on fuel, supplies, and water: it's the last major town before the Pantanal. About 445 km and 6.5 to 7 hours of driving.

Overnight: Loma Plata: Hotel Loma Plata Inn or Hotel Flor Papillon.

The Bioceánica Highway and the road to Fuerte Olimpo

≈ 344 km

Along the Bioceánica Highway toward the Río Paraguay and the final unpaved stretch of about 140 km to Fuerte Olimpo. It's roughly 340 km and 6 to 7 hours or more, depending on road conditions: leave at dawn and check ahead if it's rained. Arrival at sunset, with the three hills silhouetted over the Río Paraguay.

Overnight: Fuerte Olimpo: simple guesthouses in town (book ahead; they fill up during the town's September anniversary week).

Fuerte Olimpo: hills, fort, and river

Climb the 537 steps to the Marian viewpoint: karanda'y palm groves and wetlands stretching to the horizon. Visit the walls of Fuerte Borbón, dating to 1792, and the stone cathedral of María Auxiliadora. In the afternoon, a boat trip or fishing with local guides and, if possible, a meeting with Ishir (Chamacoco) artisans.

Overnight: Fuerte Olimpo: simple guesthouses in town.

On to Bahía Negra, the last town upriver

≈ 181 km

An unpaved stretch of about 180 km and 4.5 hours or more to Bahía Negra, close to the triple border with Bolivia and Brazil. Leave early with a full tank. In the afternoon, walk the town's small circuit and the port, and arrange upcoming boat trips with local boatmen.

Overnight: Bahía Negra: Hotel Puertas del Pantanal, Hotel Costa del Río, Posada Bahía Negra 2, or Nutria Renda.

By boat to Los Tres Gigantes

About 40 km by boat along the Río Negro to the Los Tres Gigantes Biological Station, a Guyra Paraguay reserve in the transition zone between the Pantanal and the dry Chaco. Trails, viewpoints, canoeing, and, with patience, caimans, marsh deer, and giant otters. The night, under a sky free of light pollution, is part of the experience.

Overnight: Los Tres Gigantes Station (Guyra Paraguay), with advance reservation and very limited spots.

The Río Negro and the triple border

Sunrise birdwatching at the station and the return by boat past Río Negro National Park and Puerto Caballo, where Paraguay, Bolivia, and Brazil meet. Wetlands with no infrastructure: bring water, a hat, and insect repellent. Afternoon in Bahía Negra and, if arranged in advance, a visit to a Yshir community.

Overnight: Bahía Negra: Hotel Puertas del Pantanal, Hotel Costa del Río, Posada Bahía Negra 2, or Nutria Renda.

Back to the Central Chaco

≈ 395 km

A long day heading back: about 395 km, largely unpaved at the start, and 7 to 8 hours of driving to Loma Plata. Leave at dawn and build in some margin in case the road is rough. Dinner and rest in the Mennonite colony.

Overnight: Loma Plata: Hotel Loma Plata Inn or Hotel Flor Papillon; or Campamento Laguna Capitán, with a reservation.

Loma Plata to Asunción

≈ 445 km

Return via the Transchaco, about 445 km and 6.5 to 7 hours, with a stop in Pozo Colorado. If you have energy left, a short detour to the salt lagoons before leaving the colonies adds flamingos to the trip (May to September).

Overnight: Asunción: Hotel Guaraní, Granados Park Hotel, or El Viajero Hostel.

Tips

Even a small amount of rain can cut off the dirt roads: build in one or two extra days and check conditions before each leg.
Alternatives to driving: a weekly bus run by the San Juan company from Asunción, and a SETAM flight to Bahía Negra, though days and schedules change often (check before you go).
There's no confirmed regular passenger boat to Bahía Negra since the Aquidabán ferry stopped running; some operators and cargo boats from Concepción or Vallemí take passengers: check before you go.
Book Los Tres Gigantes Station with Guyra Paraguay well in advance, and bring cash: there are almost no ATMs in the Alto Paraguay region.