Routes · 3 days

Ñeembucú and the Great War: Pilar, Humaitá, and Curupayty

Three days across the setting of the War of the Triple Alliance (1864–1870). In Ypané and Villeta, the December 1868 campaign. In Pilar, an 18th-century (1784) town hall turned museum and a marble basilica facing the river. In Humaitá, the ruins of the San Carlos church, punctured by artillery fire. In Curupayty, Paraguay's greatest victory of the war. And in Paso de Patria, the confluence of the Paraguay and Paraná rivers.

History enthusiasts, students, and anglers looking for a rarely visited corner of Paraguay.Fall, winter, and spring. In summer, visit early because of the heat; respect the year-end fishing ban.Your own or a rental car on Route PY19 (Villeta–Alberdi–Pilar). Buses run to Pilar; for Humaitá and Curupayty, a car or local guide is best.

Ypané, Villeta, and arrival in Pilar

≈ 233 km

First stop: Ypané, a former Franciscan reduction, with a monument to the Battle of Ytororó. 11 km on, Villeta and its riverside promenade along the Río Paraguay. Then about 190 km on Route PY19 to Pilar. At dusk, the Cabildo Historical Museum, the Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar, and the waterfront. About 235 km and 4 hours of driving.

Overnight: Pilar: Las Hortensias Hotel Boutique, Posada Casa del Río, or Posada Mburukuja Poty.

Humaitá, Curupayty, and Paso de Patria

≈ 77 km

In the morning, Humaitá: the facade of the San Carlos church, pockmarked by cannon fire, and the museum at the old barracks. Continue to Curupayty, where on September 22, 1866, Paraguayan trenches held off the Allied attack. Finish in Paso de Patria, facing the meeting point of the Paraguay and Paraná rivers, where the 1866 invasion began. About 80 km, unpaved at the end.

Overnight: Paso de Patria: Cabaña Paso de Patria. Or head back to Pilar (about 60 km).

The wetlands of Ñeembucú and the way back

≈ 283 km

Sunrise on the river with capybaras, caimans, and birds, or a guided fishing trip (outside the ban period). Back to Pilar for lunch and, if there's time, a guided walk through the wetlands. An afternoon on the road to Asunción via Route PY19: about 285 km and 4 hours 45 minutes to 5 hours.

Overnight: Asunción: Hotel Guaraní, Casa Corbellani, or El Viajero Hostel.

Tips

The Pilar municipal office can provide contacts for guides covering Humaitá, fishing, kayaking, and birdwatching: check before you travel.
Fill up on fuel and water in Pilar: services are limited in Humaitá and Paso de Patria.
The dirt road to Curupayty and Paso de Patria gets difficult in the rain.
In January, Pilar celebrates its Hawaiian-themed festival; on October 12, its patron saint's day.