Routes · 14 days
The Grand Paraguay in 14 Days
Two weeks to take in the whole country: Asunción and its museums, Lake Ypacaraí, the Virgin of Caacupé, Salto Suizo waterfall in the Ybytyruzú rainforest, the Franciscan reductions of Caazapá, the Jesuit missions of Itapúa, Bella Vista's yerba mate, Itaipú, and the Monday Falls. Then it's on to the Transchaco highway toward the Central Chaco: Mennonite colonies, Chaco War forts, and flamingos on the salt lagoons.
Founding-era Asunción
≈ 4 km
A day on foot through the historic center: Plaza de los Héroes and the Pantheon of Heroes, the Independence House, the Cathedral, and the Cabildo, with its free art and music galleries. In the afternoon, Manzana de la Rivera, across from the López Palace, then sunset at the Costanera, overlooking the bay where the city was founded in 1537.
Overnight: Asunción: Hotel Guaraní, Casa Corbellani, La Casona Hotel Boutique, or El Viajero Hostel.
Mercado 4, Museo del Barro, and Villa Morra
≈ 28 km
Morning at Mercado 4, among stalls of herbs for tereré (chilled herbal mate), food stands, and Guaraní spoken in every aisle. Home-style lunch in Loma San Jerónimo. In the afternoon, the Museo del Barro (Tuesday to Saturday from 2pm): Indigenous, folk, and contemporary art all under one roof. Dinner in Villa Morra or Paseo Carmelitas, the modern face of Asunción.
Overnight: Asunción: Hotel Guaraní, Casa Corbellani, or, in the Villa Morra area, Hilton Garden Inn or Aloft.
Areguá and Lake Ypacaraí
≈ 57 km
Head out to Areguá: pottery workshops, old houses, and the hilltop church with a view over the lake. Walk among the sandstone columns of Cerro Kõi (weekdays only). In the afternoon, follow the lakeshore to San Bernardino, the 1881 German colony that's now the capital of the Paraguayan summer. About 60 km.
Overnight: San Bernardino: Hotel del Lago, Hotel Los Alpes, or Cabañas Los Árboles.
Caacupé, Villarrica, and Colonia Independencia
≈ 163 km
An early visit to the Caacupé basilica, then Route PY02 to Coronel Oviedo before turning onto Route PY08 to Villarrica, the 'wandering city' of poets and the Guairá Carnival. Lunch and a walk through downtown. At dusk, Colonia Independencia, founded by German immigrants at the foot of the Ybytyruzú range: vineyards, ice-cold chopp (draft beer), and mountain air. About 165 km and 2 hours 45 minutes of driving.
Overnight: Colonia Independencia: Hotel Independencia, Vista Alegre Natural Resort (upscale), or Posada Mirian Mabel (budget).
Salto Suizo and the Ybytyruzú rainforest
≈ 23 km
A day of nature at Salto Suizo, a waterfall over 60 meters high deep in the forest, with trails, a zip line, and rappelling for the adventurous. The last few kilometers are dirt and rock: after rain, check conditions first. Back in Independencia, ice-cold chopp and, in season (November to January), fresh grapes from the colony.
Overnight: Colonia Independencia: Hotel Independencia or Vista Alegre; or stay overnight in one of the barrel cabins at Parque Ecológico Salto Suizo.
Franciscan Caazapá and down to Encarnación
≈ 270 km
South on Route PY08, with a stop in Caazapá, a Franciscan reduction founded by Fray Luis de Bolaños, home to its legendary spring, Ykua Bolaños, and the Fray Juan Bernardo Museum. Continue through Yuty to Coronel Bogado for roadside chipa, then arrive in Encarnación for sunset on the riverfront. About 270 km and 4 hours 30 minutes of driving: the longest day in the south.
Overnight: Encarnación: De la Trinidad Hotel, De La Costa Hotel, Del Sur Hotel Museo, or Hostal Stop 87.
The Jesuit missions of Jesús and Trinidad
≈ 85 km
Morning at Jesús de Tavarangue and a long afternoon at Santísima Trinidad, the best-preserved reduction, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Walk the main plaza, the galleries of the indigenous residents' houses, and the church's frieze of angel musicians. Stay for the evening light-and-sound show (Wednesday to Sunday, check before you go). About 85 km.
Overnight: Trinidad: Posada María. Or Encarnación, about 30 km away.
Bella Vista, the yerba mate capital, and the road east
≈ 294 km
A morning visit to a yerba mate producer in Bella Vista, following the process from the plantation to the packaged bag, plus a short stop in Hohenau. Then about 3 hours 30 minutes on Route PY06 to Ciudad del Este, with a free afternoon for shopping or a walk around Lago de la República. About 295 km.
Overnight: Ciudad del Este: Dazzler by Wyndham, Gran Nobile Hotel, or Hummingbird Hostel.
Itaipú, the Monday Falls, and Three Borders
≈ 77 km
Itaipú first thing in the morning (free, but book ahead). In the afternoon, the Monday Falls, and at sunset, the Three Borders Landmark, where Brazil and Argentina come into view over the meeting of the Iguazú and Paraná rivers. About 80 km for the day.
Overnight: Ciudad del Este: Dazzler by Wyndham, Gran Nobile Hotel, or Hummingbird Hostel.
Back to Asunción through immigrant colonies
≈ 331 km
A driving day on Route PY02, about 330 km and 5 hours. Stops in Yguazú, the Japanese colony, and in Campo 9, with Mennonite farms and local dairy products, roughly at the halfway point. Arrival in Asunción in the afternoon to rest up before the Chaco.
Overnight: Asunción: Hotel Guaraní, Granados Park Hotel, or Hotel Westfalenhaus.
Along the Transchaco highway to Filadelfia
≈ 462 km
Leave at dawn and cross the Remanso Bridge: the Transchaco highway runs through palm groves and wetlands full of birdlife. A practical stop in Pozo Colorado, the main crossroads of the Chaco (fuel and food). Just before Filadelfia, the Gran Chaco Americano Interpretation Center (Wednesday to Sunday) offers the best introduction to the region. About 460 km and 6.5 to 7 hours of driving: a long day, but an easy one, fully paved.
Overnight: Filadelfia: Hotel Florida (run by the Fernheim cooperative), Hotel Golondrina, or Estancia Iparoma (a working ranch stay), 20 km away.
Chaco War forts
≈ 188 km
Morning at Fortín Toledo, now a refuge for the taguá — a peccary once thought extinct (reservation required). Lunch in Neuland, the youngest of the Mennonite colonies. In the afternoon, Fortín Boquerón: trenches, a cemetery, and the museum marking the start of Paraguay's 1932 victory; call ahead to confirm hours. Unpaved stretches: avoid rainy days. About 190 km.
Overnight: Filadelfia: Hotel Florida or Hotel Golondrina.
Loma Plata and the flamingos of Laguna Capitán
≈ 60 km
Morning in Loma Plata, the oldest Mennonite colony in the Chaco, with its pioneer museum and the Trébol dairy cooperative. In the afternoon, head to the salt lagoons: flamingos, coscoroba swans, and hundreds of other birds winter at Laguna Capitán (May to September, depending on water levels). Sunset and a starry sky. About 60 km.
Overnight: Campamento Laguna Capitán (reservation required) or Loma Plata: Hotel Loma Plata Inn or Hotel Flor Papillon.
Back to Asunción via the Transchaco
≈ 434 km
Sunrise birdwatching at the lagoon, then the return trip along the Transchaco highway, about 430 km and 6.5 to 7 hours of driving, with a stop in Pozo Colorado. Arrival in Asunción in the afternoon, with time for one last dinner and a farewell round of mate.
Overnight: Asunción: Hotel Guaraní or Casa Corbellani; or Luque, near the airport (Rio Hotel by Bourbon Luque).
Tips
- In the Chaco, fill up on fuel whenever you can and carry extra water: services are scarce between Pozo Colorado and the colonies.
- The Fernheim tourism office is closed on Sundays, and the Mennonite museums require booking ahead: don't arrive in Filadelfia on a Saturday afternoon without a reservation.
- Book Itaipú, Fortín Toledo, and Campamento Laguna Capitán well in advance.
- If your schedule allows, time Day 7 for Wednesday through Sunday to catch the missions' evening shows.