Trey Jones · Public domainÑandutí lace
Ñanduti
Needle lace worked in wheels that mimic a spider's web: the crown jewel of Paraguayan handicrafts.
What it is
On a wooden frame, the artisan stretches threads into spokes and knots them with a needle until they form wheels that recall a spider's web — hence its Guaraní name, meaning 'spiderweb'. Each wheel combines stitches, or randas, named after things in nature, and the wheels are joined to make tablecloths, blouses, earrings, wall hangings and religious ornaments. Traditionally white, it is now also woven in bright colors. Itauguá is its capital; Pirayú has randas of its own.
History
The most widely accepted theory, popularized by the writer Josefina Plá, traces it back to the 'sun lace' of Tenerife in the Canary Islands, adapted by mestizo women and spread through the workshops of the missions. The first documented mention dates from 1839. It nearly vanished after the War of the Triple Alliance and survived thanks to the women who kept weaving it.
Did you know…?
A Guaraní legend says the first ñandutí was woven by a mother using white strands of her own hair, copying a spider's web. Itauguá was declared the 'capital of ñandutí' by Law 4591 of 2012, and Paraguay has nominated ñandutí know-how to UNESCO (the bid is still under review).
Where to buy
Shops and workshops along Route PY02 as it passes through Itauguá, about 30 km from Asunción. In Pirayú, the textile Safeguarding School run by the IPA (the national crafts institute) gives demonstrations of the process. Look for signed pieces or buy directly from the weaver.